Choosing a Reputable Roofing Contractor (Homeowner Checklist)

The difference between a great roof job and a disaster is usually the contractor, not the shingle. Two crews installing the same product can produce 10-year roofs or 30-year roofs depending on their training, the foreman's experience, and how carefully they handle flashing and ventilation.

Here are the 8 verification steps to run before you sign anything. Most of them take less than 10 minutes each.

1. Verify their state license

Forty-three states require roofing contractors to hold a state or local license. The license number should be on their website, truck, and estimate. Verify it on your state's contractor license board website. Look for:

• Status: active, not suspended
• Expiration date: should be at least 90 days out
• Complaint history: review any disciplinary actions
• Bond: many states require a surety bond that is separate from liability insurance

If your state does not license roofers, check your city or county for a local contractor registration. Unlicensed work in most jurisdictions voids your building permit and can complicate home sales.

2. Verify their liability insurance AND workers comp

Two separate policies. Both matter.

General liability protects your home if the contractor damages your property (e.g., a ladder through a window, a dropped bundle of shingles on your car). Minimum coverage to look for: $1 million per occurrence, $2 million aggregate.

Workers compensation protects YOU if a worker is injured on your property. Without it, an injured roofer can sue the homeowner directly. In many states, workers comp is required by law for any company with employees.

Ask for a certificate of insurance (COI) listing you and your address as additional insured. Call the insurance agent on the certificate to verify the policy is active. Contractors can forge COIs. Insurance agents cannot.

3. Check their BBB rating and complaint history

The Better Business Bureau is not perfect, but it is a useful filter. Look for:

• Rating of A- or better
• 3 or fewer complaints in the last 3 years
• Any unresolved complaints (flag)
• Length of time accredited

A brand-new company with no BBB history is not automatically bad, but it is a data point worth weighing.

4. Read Google reviews with a filter

Minimum threshold for comfort: 4.5 stars with at least 50 reviews over 2+ years.

Skim for patterns. One angry review is normal. Multiple reviews mentioning the same issue (missed appointments, poor cleanup, warranty denial) is a trend.

Also read the responses. A company that responds to negative reviews professionally and offers to make things right is usually more reliable than one that argues with unhappy customers in public.

5. Confirm the local track record

"Local" means they have a physical office, a local phone number (not just a cell), and a history of projects within 50 miles.

Red flags:

• Out-of-state license plates or address
• PO Box instead of a street address
• No website or a website that looks generic
• Only reachable by cell phone
• Crew members wear different shirt logos from the salesperson

Ask for 3 addresses of recent local jobs. Drive by one of them and look at the roof. Knock if you feel like it.

6. Ask for manufacturer certifications

Major shingle brands (GAF, CertainTeed, Owens Corning, Malarkey) run certified contractor programs. To get certified, a contractor has to pass training, maintain insurance, and meet installation quality standards. Certification matters for two reasons:

1. Only certified contractors can offer the manufacturer's enhanced warranty (typically 50 years instead of the standard 25)
2. Certification is revocable by the manufacturer if quality drops, so it is an ongoing quality signal

See our homeowner guide to roofing warranties for how the different warranty tiers work.

7. Verify the estimate is itemized

Refuse any quote that is a single lump sum. A legitimate estimate breaks out:

• Tear-off and disposal
• Decking repair allowance (per sheet)
• Underlayment (synthetic, felt, or ice and water shield by area)
• Drip edge and starter strip
• Shingles (brand, line, and color)
• Ridge vent and exhaust components
• Flashing (pipe boots, step flashing, chimney)
• Labor
• Permit
• Warranty tier

Itemized quotes let you compare apples to apples across three contractors. Lump-sum quotes hide substitutions.

8. Ask the right questions

Our post on questions to ask your roofing contractor has a full list. The five most important:

1. How long have you been in business in this specific town?
2. Can I see a current certificate of insurance with my address as additional insured?
3. Are you certified by the manufacturer of the shingles you are quoting?
4. What is your payment schedule?
5. What is your written workmanship warranty?

Payment schedule red flags

A legitimate payment schedule looks like:

• 0% to 10% on signing (for permit and deposit)
• Balance due on completion, after your walkthrough

Or for insurance jobs:

• ACV check endorsed to the contractor on material delivery
• Recoverable depreciation check paid on completion

Any contractor asking for 50% or more up front is a flag. Any contractor asking for cash or wire transfer only is a flag.

The written contract

Before signing, make sure the contract includes:

• Full legal company name and license number
• Full scope of work matching the estimate
• Start date window and completion date window
• Shingle brand, line, and color
• Workmanship warranty terms and duration
• Payment schedule
• Cancellation clause (most states require a 3-day right of rescission)
• Who handles the permit

Green flags worth noting

Signals of a good contractor:

• They show up on time to the initial estimate
• They photograph your roof and walk you through findings
• They point out things that are NOT damaged, not just things that are
• They give you a written estimate within 3 business days
• They answer the phone or call back same-day
• They do not pressure you to sign on the first visit

FAQ

Q: Do I really need to get three estimates?
A: Yes. Pricing varies 15% to 30% between reputable contractors on the same scope. Three bids gives you a range and a reality check.

Q: What if a contractor offers a big discount for signing today?
A: Walk away. Legitimate pricing does not evaporate in 24 hours. High-pressure tactics usually mean high-pressure sales-heavy company with lower install quality.

Q: Should I pick the lowest bid?
A: Usually not. Pick the mid-bid from a contractor with strong references, valid insurance, and manufacturer certification. Lowest bid often means shortcuts that show up in year 3 to 5.