On The Roof Inspection Checklist: Every Photo, Every Test

Your rep climbs the roof, takes eight blurry photos, and hands the job to the adjuster meeting. The adjuster walks the roof and finds things your rep missed. Claim approved at half the scope. You just lost $9,000 because of a 15-minute inspection.

A proper roof inspection takes 30 to 45 minutes and produces documentation that would hold up in a carrier dispute. Here is the full checklist.

Safety First: What You Climb With

OSHA fall protection standards apply to every roof over 6 feet. You need:

• Harness rated for your weight plus equipment
• Anchor point (ridge anchor or anchored rope grab)
• Lanyard properly adjusted
• Soft-sole shoes (no hard-sole work boots on shingles)
• Ladder properly set: 4:1 ratio, 3 feet above the eave, both feet on solid ground

If the pitch exceeds 7/12, use a ridge anchor and stay roped in the entire time. 12/12 pitch roofs are a two-person job minimum. No exceptions.

The 40-Photo Baseline

Adjusters expect thorough documentation. Your target is 40 to 60 photos per inspection. Blurry, overexposed, or cropped photos get rejected during claim review. Take 5 to 10 photos per category:

1. Overview Shots

• All 4 elevations of the home from the ground
• Front entry sign or house numbers for identification
• Street view showing the property
• Aerial perspective (from ladder top) of full roof

2. Each Slope Individually

• Wide shot of each slope
• Mid-range shot showing damage pattern
• Close-up of 3 to 5 representative damage points per slope

3. Ridge, Hips, Valleys

• Ridge cap condition
• Hip cap damage
• Valley metal wear and any penetration issues

4. Flashings and Penetrations

• Step flashing at all walls
• Counter flashing at chimneys
• Pipe boot condition (cracks, UV damage)
• Skylight flashing if present
• Vent condition (ridge vent, box vents, power vents)

5. Soft Metals

• Gutters (hail dents on the top facing surface)
• Downspouts (hail marks on the face)
• Window screens, mailbox, HVAC condenser fins
• Flashing dings

Hail vs Wind: Knowing the Difference

Hail Damage Patterns

Hail hits are round, random, and typically show on multiple slopes. The strike pattern is scattered, not linear. You will see:

• Granule loss in a spatter pattern
• Bruising (soft spot you can feel with a fingernail)
• Exposed asphalt mat
• Matching damage on soft metals (gutters, AC fins, window screens)

If the shingle has granule loss but the gutter and AC have no dings, it is probably not hail. It is wear.

Wind Damage Patterns

Wind damage is directional. You will see:

• Lifted, creased, or missing shingles
• Damage concentrated on the windward side
• Torn sealant strip under shingle tabs
• Debris blown into specific areas

Wind damage shows up after 60+ mph winds. Below that, check for shingle sealant failure, which is a manufacturing or installation issue, not wind.

The Soft Metals Test

This is the single test that distinguishes real hail claims from wear claims. Soft metals (gutters, downspouts, AC fins, window screens, grills) will show dents from any hail strike that is big enough to damage shingles.

If the shingles have visible "hits" but the gutter cap is pristine, something is wrong. Either the damage is mechanical (ladder dents, foot traffic), old (pre-existing and not from the covered storm event), or fraudulent.

Walk the gutter line. Take 10 photos of dent patterns on the gutter top. Test AC condenser fins. Photograph window screens. If you cannot find matching soft metal damage, you probably do not have a defensible hail claim.

Measurements

Take measurements on every inspection even if the claim pays on a different method:

• Length and width of each slope (to calculate squares)
• Ridge length, hip length, valley length
• Rake edges and eave edges
• Count of penetrations (pipe boots, vents)
• Chimney dimensions (for counter flashing and cricket)

A 10-square roof measured imprecisely can easily come in at 12 squares with accurate measurements. That is $400 to $600 in material the adjuster would otherwise miss.

The Test Square

Adjusters use a 10-foot by 10-foot test square (100 square feet) to document damage density. If 8 or more hits are found in a test square, that slope generally qualifies for replacement.

Your inspection should include a test square on each slope. Mark it with chalk or tape. Photograph every hit inside the test square. If the adjuster disputes damage, you have the test square documentation to push back.

Interior Inspection Too

Do not skip the interior. Water stains on ceilings, attic moisture, and drywall damage are all covered under the dwelling policy and often missed. Walk the attic (or ask for permission to do so). Check around skylights, vents, and chimney chases.

Interior damage is particularly important for storm events that caused leaks. If the homeowner reports any water inside, document it extensively.

Documentation for the Claim File

Your inspection generates:

• 40+ photos organized by slope
• Measurement diagram (hand-drawn or digital)
• Damage summary (what was found and where)
• Signed inspection agreement from homeowner
• Insurance info (carrier, policy number, date of loss)

Submit this to your back office the same day. Adjuster meetings get scheduled faster when the file is complete. RoofKnockers lets reps upload photos directly from the roof, tag them by slope, and attach measurements automatically, so the file is complete before the rep climbs down.

FAQ

How long should a full inspection take?

30 to 45 minutes on a standard single-family home. Rushing to 15 minutes means missed damage. Taking 90 minutes means you are over-documenting. Get efficient and stay thorough.

What if the homeowner wants to climb with me?

Do not let them. Liability exposure if they fall. Instead, record a video of the inspection on your phone and walk them through it afterward. They see the damage, you stay covered on insurance.

What do I do if I find pre-existing damage?

Document it separately. Tell the adjuster upfront. Trying to hide old damage and lump it into a new claim is insurance fraud and can void the policy. Pre-existing damage that is clearly old (weathered cuts, obvious age) should be flagged so the claim is clean.

Should I inspect roofs I know will not qualify?

No. An inspection that ends in "no damage" is 45 minutes of your time gone. Train your setters to qualify better so you do not climb roofs that have no hail pattern, no soft metal damage, and no storm date matching the expected loss. Drive-bys save hours.